SymptomSkin, hair & nails

Acne Breakouts: What Causes Spots and Pimples

Acne breakouts are spots that form when hair follicles clog with oil and dead skin: blackheads, whiteheads, red pimples and sometimes deeper painful lumps. They appear mostly on the face, chest and back. Breakouts are driven by hormones, so they peak in the teens but are common in adults, especially women. Over-the-counter benzoyl peroxide or adapalene clears mild acne in 6 to 12 weeks. See a doctor for deep, painful or scarring spots.

Also called: Pimples, spots, zits, breakouts, blackheads and whiteheads

At a glance

What it is
Clogged, inflamed hair follicles causing blackheads, whiteheads, pimples, and sometimes nodules or cysts.
Where
Face, forehead, chest, upper back and shoulders, where oil glands are largest.
Main triggers
Hormones (puberty, periods, PCOS), heavy cosmetics, friction, some medicines and genetics.
Lookalikes
Rosacea, folliculitis, perioral dermatitis, milia and keratosis pilaris.
What helps
Benzoyl peroxide, adapalene, gentle cleansing and patience. Prescription treatment for moderate to severe acne.

When to get help

See a doctor within a day or two

  • Sudden, severe acne with ulcerated, crusted spots, fever and joint pain (acne fulminans, rare, mostly in teenage boys)
  • A rapidly spreading, hot, painful red area around a spot, or fever
  • Severe low mood or thoughts of self-harm related to acne or its treatment: call or text 988 (US) if in crisis

Book a routine appointment

  • Deep, painful lumps or cysts, or spots that leave scars or dark marks
  • Acne that has not improved after 2 to 3 months of over-the-counter treatment
  • Acne with irregular periods, excess facial or body hair, or scalp hair thinning (possible PCOS)
  • Acne that started suddenly in adulthood or after a new medicine or supplement
  • Acne that is affecting your confidence or mood

Usually safe to manage at home

  • Occasional blackheads, whiteheads and small red pimples
  • Mild breakouts before a period or with stress

What acne spots look like

Acne produces a mix of spot types. Recognizing them helps choose treatment:

  • Blackheads (open comedones): small dark plugs. The color is oxidized oil and skin pigment, not dirt.
  • Whiteheads (closed comedones): small skin-colored or white bumps with a closed surface.
  • Papules: small red, tender bumps.
  • Pustules: red bumps with a white or yellow center of pus.
  • Nodules and cysts: large, deep, painful lumps under the skin that last weeks and are most likely to scar.

For the biology of acne, its grades and the full range of medical treatments, see the condition page on acne.

What causes breakouts

Hormones

Androgens (male-type hormones present in everyone) make oil glands enlarge and produce more sebum. That is why acne starts at puberty, often flares in the week before a period, and can appear or worsen in pregnancy. Women with acne along the jaw and chin, irregular periods and extra hair growth may have polycystic ovary syndrome.

Clogged pores

Dead skin cells stick together inside the follicle instead of shedding, plugging it with oil. Thick, oily cosmetics, hair products (spots along the hairline) and sunscreen not labeled "non-comedogenic" can add to blockage.

Bacteria and inflammation

The skin bacterium Cutibacterium acnes thrives in clogged, oily follicles and triggers inflammation, turning comedones into red pimples.

Friction and pressure

Helmets, chin straps, backpacks, tight collars, face masks and phone screens can cause acne where they rub (acne mechanica).

Medicines and supplements

Steroids (tablets, injections and anabolic steroids), lithium, some anti-epileptic drugs, testosterone, some progestin-only contraceptives, and high-dose vitamin B12 or whey protein supplements can trigger breakouts.

Diet and other factors

Evidence links high-glycemic diets and skim milk to acne in some people, though the effect is modest. Stress can worsen existing acne. Genetics matter: acne in a parent raises your risk. Picking and squeezing spots spreads inflammation and increases scarring.

Acne by age and location

Location or groupTypical features
TeenagersForehead, nose and chin first (T-zone), then cheeks, chest and back
Adult womenJawline, chin and neck, often flaring before periods
Back and chest ("bacne")Often more inflammatory and more likely to scar. Sweat and tight clothing aggravate it
NewbornsSmall red spots on the cheeks in the first weeks. Usually clears without treatment by 3 months
Children aged 1 to 7Unusual. Needs a doctor to check for early hormone problems

Spots that are not acne

ConditionHow it differs
RosaceaAdults over 30, central facial redness and flushing, no blackheads
FolliculitisUniform itchy pustules around hairs, often after shaving, hot tubs or sweating
Perioral dermatitisTiny bumps around the mouth and nose, sparing a rim next to the lips, often after steroid creams
MiliaTiny, hard, white cysts, not inflamed, around the eyes
Keratosis pilarisRough small bumps on the upper arms and thighs
Hidradenitis suppurativaPainful boils in the armpits, groin and under the breasts

Spots on the back of the tongue are not acne. The tongue has normal raised bumps (papillae) at the back, which can look prominent or swollen after irritation or a cold. Any tongue sore that lasts more than 3 weeks needs a doctor or dentist to look at it.

What helps at home

  • Cleanse gently twice a day with a mild, non-soap cleanser and lukewarm water. Scrubbing irritates the skin and worsens inflammation.
  • Benzoyl peroxide (2.5% to 5% wash or gel) kills acne bacteria and does not cause resistance. It can bleach towels and clothing.
  • Adapalene 0.1% gel, available over the counter, unclogs pores. Apply a pea-sized amount to the whole area at night. Expect dryness and some worsening in the first few weeks.
  • Salicylic acid helps blackheads and whiteheads.
  • Moisturize with a non-comedogenic product, and use a non-comedogenic sunscreen.
  • Do not pick or squeeze. It drives inflammation deeper and leaves marks and scars.
  • Be patient. Any acne treatment takes 6 to 12 weeks to show its full effect.

Adapalene and other retinoids should not be used in pregnancy without medical advice.

When to see a doctor

See a primary care doctor or dermatologist if acne is moderate or severe, is leaving scars or dark marks, has not improved after 2 to 3 months of over-the-counter treatment, or is affecting your mood. Effective prescription options include stronger topical retinoids, combination gels, short courses of oral antibiotics, hormonal treatments for women and isotretinoin for severe or scarring acne. Early treatment prevents acne scars, which are much harder to treat than the acne itself.

Frequently asked questions

What causes acne breakouts?

Breakouts happen when oil and dead skin cells clog hair follicles, acne bacteria multiply and inflammation develops. Hormones drive the oil production, which is why acne starts at puberty and flares before periods. Heavy cosmetics, friction, stress, some medicines and genetics can make it worse.

Why am I getting acne as an adult?

Adult acne is common, especially in women, and often affects the jawline and chin. Hormonal changes around periods, pregnancy, stopping birth control and PCOS are frequent causes. Stress, new skincare or hair products, and medicines or supplements can also trigger it.

How long does it take for acne to clear?

Most treatments take 6 to 12 weeks to work fully, and skin may look worse for the first few weeks with retinoids. Once acne is controlled, continuing a maintenance treatment such as adapalene helps prevent it from returning.

Is it bad to pop pimples?

Yes. Squeezing pushes bacteria and inflamed material deeper into the skin, prolongs healing and increases the risk of dark marks, scars and infection. A dermatologist can safely extract stubborn comedones or inject a painful cyst to settle it quickly.

Can diet cause acne?

Diet is not the main cause, but high-glycemic foods such as sugary drinks and white bread, and dairy, especially skim milk, are linked to worse acne in some people. Changing diet may help a little alongside treatment but rarely clears acne alone.

Sources

This guide was written from current patient and clinical guidance, including:

  • American Academy of Dermatology: Acne, diagnosis and treatment
  • American Academy of Dermatology: Guidelines of care for the management of acne vulgaris
  • NHS: Acne
  • MedlinePlus: Acne
  • NICE: Acne vulgaris, management (NG198)